A paleta, or paleta helada, is pretty much like a popsicle (as they’re known in the U.S.) or an ice lolly (as they’re known in Britain). The difference is that a traditional Mexican paleta is made with real fresh fruit juice, and sometimes carries chunks of real fruit in it.

While the history of ice cream has been well-documented — it’s thought to have originated in China, and was eventually brought to Europe by Marco Polo — the history of the paleta isn’t quite so detailed.

An old Mexican legend says that the Aztec emperors had servants who would bring ice from the Popocatépetl volcano, outside Mexico City. The emperors would eat this ice, mixed with fruits. This sounds exotic but isn’t backed up by written historical sources. What we do know is that during the Viceregal times, the historical name for the period of the Spanish conquest, the Spanish crown regulated and monopolized the ice market. People paid high taxes to have access to it.

After Mexico gained its independence from Spain in 1810, this taxation was lifted and the ice market opened up. More people had access to ice. Therefore, more people experimented with it.

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Digging into tacos de suadero

On June 3, 2010, in Tacos, by Lesley
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Taquería Jalisco is a charming fonda-slash-puesto, located next to a parking garage on Rio Lerma.

They offer several types of tacos, but my favorite is their suadero, a tender, fatty cut that comes from the area underneath the cow’s skin. (The definition from Ricardo Muñoz Zurita’s Mexican gastronomic dictionary.) When suadero’s cooked, it’s greasy, crisp, meaty. Topped with a spritz of lime juice and a spoonful of red salsa, it’s very hard to eat just two, which is my usual limit with street tacos. Last time I visited Taquería Jalisco, I ate four.

Really, I’m fascinated with taquerías in Mexico City, and not just because of the taste. It’s the mechanics of it — the precision, the efficiency. The taquero tosses a handful of meat onto the comal, and watches the fat bubble and sizzle. He palms a few barely silver-dollar-sized corn tortillas, scoops up the meat, and tosses it, meat-side up, onto a plastic plate that’s lined with a square of paper. He asks: “Con todo?” and that’s a shortened code for “Do you want cilantro and onions?” The whole transaction — the making of the taco itself, whether you’ve ordered one or four — is done in under 30 seconds. It’s amazing.

My pictorial tribute is up on my personal blog. Oh, and here’s the info on the place, should you ever be in the ‘hood:

Taquería Jalisco
On Rio Lerma, between Rio Sena and Rio Tigris
Col. Cuauhtémoc
They’re open 10 a.m. to 2 a.m. Monday through Saturday.